奔向四十年代 Dior秋冬秀

　　如果你想在这一季搭乘去四十年代的快车，John Galliano一定会让你尽兴而归。他一手炮制的Christian Dior再现了好莱坞美女集中营的盛景，如同1939年电影《The Women》中汇聚了三四十年代美国影坛的经典美女主演一般，那争奇斗妍的繁华。当然你不会再看到仅是黑白的电影，富丽的紫红、黄绿、铁蓝，齐齐宣扬出色彩的盛世。
　　作为对上一季相对暗哑的补偿，Galliano挂上了满挡，以五十八套服饰将T台填塞得满满当当。鸽灰色的伸展台，扶栏楼梯的两旁团簇盛开的花朵，某种程度上也是对Dior的致敬。Galliano在刚刚发布的以“蝴蝶夫人”为主题的高级定制秀上获得了显著的成功，其中一部分在这个系列里也得以延伸，那些以昂贵的手工艺制作的梦幻落实到了更贴近人群的批量之中。你会看到柔和的波浪卷发，琼•克劳馥如弯月般的浓眉，也会看到日式的藤条斗笠，立体化折纸，还有和服宽腰带，好莱坞经典与东洋风情被天衣无缝的结合了起来。
　　最奢美的段落莫过于皮草的飨宴，鸵鸟摆大衣在下端装饰着丰盛的狐狸毛，或者干脆拿来做同色系蟒皮套装的整袖，手法夸张却又极尽女性化的美感。在模特们婀娜多姿的摇摆间，Galliano又一次让众人叹为观止。（撰文/RR）









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